Local recipes
Cook at home what you tasted on your travels: the dishes of the places we have written about, with the quantities and the steps.
Alsazia (France)
Assia (Germany)
Baden-Württemberg (Germany)
Basilicata (Italy)
Borgogna (France)
Jambon persillé
the Burgundy Easter ham, pork shoulder cooked in white wine and set in jelly with garlic and parsley, to be cut in cold slices
Beaune · 12 ingredients · 6 steps
Œufs en meurette
poached eggs in meurette, the red wine sauce with bacon, baby onions and mushrooms, as they are made in the kitchens of the Château du Clos de Vougeot
Dijon · 24 ingredients · 8 steps
Canton Ginevra (Switzerland)
Canton Ticino (Switzerland)
Catalogna (Spain)
Pa amb Tomàquet
toasted bread rubbed with ripe tomato, garlic, oil and salt: the simplest and most Catalan thing you can eat
Barcelona · 5 ingredients · 5 steps
Romesco Sauce
the Catalan sauce of roasted peppers, almonds and hazelnuts, creamy and just a little hot, which at Tarragona goes with grilled fish and vegetables
Tarragona · 10 ingredients · 7 steps
Comunità Valenciana (Spain)
Emilia-Romagna (Italy)
Groninga (Netherlands)
Lazio (Italy)
Carbonara
four ingredients and no shortcuts: guanciale (cured pork cheek), pecorino romano (a hard salted sheep's milk cheese), eggs and pepper. No cream, no onion, no garlic, and guanciale is not bacon. The difficulty is not in the ingredients but in the heat: the cream is made off the flame, or it turns into an omelette
Rome · 6 ingredients · 9 steps
Frittellone
it is the dish of Civita Castellana, and it was born from the carnival itself: they were made for it, along with frappe and scroccafusi. They look like crêpes but they are not, and the difference is in the batter, which has to be far more liquid than seems right: they come out paper thin, they are dressed with pecorino and pepper and rolled up. The Pro Loco makes them by the hundred, and when they make them for the fairs you understand that the frittellone is a thing for multitudes. They are eaten hot or cold, and some people put them in broth
Civita Castellana · 7 ingredients · 7 steps
Giubba e calzoni
the name means what it sounds like, jacket and trousers, the complete outfit, and it stands for a dish that makes lunch on its own: lamb, vegetables and bread, all in the same bowl. It is from the Lazio Maremma, that is to say from here, and it is not a make-do soup but a rich one, of the kind made when there was lamb. There is one rule only: the bread is toasted and put underneath, not into it, or by the time it reaches the table it is no longer bread but mush
Montalto di Castro · 8 ingredients · 7 steps
Piciarelli with black truffle
the thick spaghetti of water and flour alone from the tradition of Bagnoregio, dressed with the black truffle of the valleys around, grated raw and never cooked
Civita di Bagnoregio · 10 ingredients · 11 steps
Civitavecchia fish soup
it is not from Santa Severa but from Civitavecchia, ten kilometres up the coast, and it comes from the same fleet that fishes in front of this beach: it is fishermen's food, not restaurant food. Two things set it apart from the other soups of the Tyrrhenian. The first is the marinara civitavecchiese, the pounded paste of garlic, oil, chilli and salted anchovy that everything starts from. The second is the mazzumaia, and this is where the secret lies: the small rock fish nobody used to buy because they were worth nothing, the ornate wrasse, the painted comber, the brown comber, the goby, the rainbow wrasse. They are cooked whole with the discarded bones, the whole thing is strained, and that reduced broth is what gives the soup a flavour the big fish alone would never give it. The name comes from the Neapolitan mazzamma, meaning stuff of little account
Santa Severa · 11 ingredients · 10 steps
Liguria (Italy)
Lombardia (Italy)
Casunziei della vallata
half moon ravioli with mountain ricotta, potato and softened onion, served with melted butter and sage
Ponte di Legno · 15 ingredients · 8 steps
Torta Donizetti
the soft, buttery ring cake with candied pineapple and apricot, scented with maraschino and vanilla, the sweet emblem of Bergamo and of the pastry shops of Lovere
Lovere · 13 ingredients · 9 steps
Tortelli di zucca mantovani
egg pasta filled with pumpkin, amaretti and mostarda, the sweet and sour recipe born at the Gonzaga court
Mantua · 12 ingredients · 5 steps
Marche (Italy)
Brodetto all'Anconetana
the sea stew born on the fishing boats with the catch that had not sold, held to be the oldest on the Adriatic and the mother of all the others
Ancona · 11 ingredients · 8 steps
Cresc'tajat
pasta made from leftover polenta, cut into diamonds like maltagliati and dressed with beans and sausage: the poor dish of the province of Pesaro and Urbino, born from throwing nothing away
Urbino · 12 ingredients · 9 steps
Crescia Sfogliata
the piadina of the province of Pesaro and Urbino, with eggs and pepper in the dough and the lard layering that makes it crumbly and soft at the same time
Pesaro · 7 ingredients · 10 steps
Moretta fanese
the laced coffee of the fishermen of Fano, with anise, rum and brandy at the bottom, the boiling coffee in the middle and the foam on top: official cocktail of the Italian barmen since 2006 and a product of gastronomic excellence of the Marche since 2011
Fano · 6 ingredients · 6 steps
Vincisgrassi
the lasagne of the Marche, which is not a lasagne: egg pasta, a white ragù of giblets and béchamel, and no tomato to cover it. It is the feast day dish across the whole inland Marche, Fabriano included
Fabriano · 13 ingredients · 9 steps
Occitania (France)
Brandade de morue
the most iconic dish of Occitan cooking, born as a way of keeping salt cod and turned into a dish for feast days
Montpellier · 7 ingredients · 6 steps
Petit Pâté de Nîmes
the little mushroom shaped pie, shortcrust pastry with a veal and pork filling, the culinary symbol of the city
Nîmes · 11 ingredients · 10 steps
Piemonte (Italy)
Gnocchi di Seirass
the fresh cheese of the Val di Susa turned into gnocchi, with mountain butter and sage
Sestriere · 7 ingredients · 6 steps
Tajarin with butter and white truffle
the thin tagliolini of the Langhe, yellow with egg yolk, dressed only with butter, cheese and white truffle shaved over the top
Alba · 6 ingredients · 7 steps
Vitello tonnato
eye of round of veal cooked in white wine, cooled and sliced thin under a sauce of tuna, anchovies and capers: it is made the day before and eaten cold
Turin · 14 ingredients · 8 steps
Puglia (Italy)
Renania Settentrionale-Vestfalia (Germany)
Salisburghese (Austria)
Sicilia (Italy)
Pasta alla Norma
the signature dish of Catania, macaroni with tomato, fried aubergines and grated ricotta salata on top, named after Bellini's opera
Catania · 8 ingredients · 9 steps
Pasta con le sarde
the Palermo dish that brings together the sea and the countryside, fresh sardines and wild fennel with raisins and pine nuts, on bucatini
Palermo · 10 ingredients · 10 steps
Tirolo (Austria)
Toscana (Italy)
Baldino aretino
the Tuscan castagnaccio, which in Arezzo carries the name of baldino: chestnut flour, water and oil, no eggs and no butter, to be eaten with fresh ricotta or Vin Santo
Arezzo · 8 ingredients · 8 steps
Cacciucco alla livornese
the soup born on the boats of Livorno with the fish the market would not take: rock fish, molluscs and shellfish in the same pan, poured over bread rubbed with garlic
Livorno · 13 ingredients · 10 steps
Cantucci Toscani
the twice baked almond biscuits, born in Prato and by now of all Tuscany, to dip in Vin Santo
Bagno Vignoni · 8 ingredients · 8 steps
Pici all'aglione
pici with a sauce of aglione from the Valdichiana, the giant garlic that melts into the oil and stays mild, so you can use as much as you need
Siena · 7 ingredients · 8 steps
Pici Cacio e Pepe
the most typical dish of the town, three ingredients and the pecorino you buy two shop windows away
Pienza · 4 ingredients · 3 steps
Ribollita
the bread and black cabbage soup of country cooking, born to use up leftovers and better the day after, when it is reheated
Monteriggioni · 12 ingredients · 10 steps
Tordelli lucchesi
the ravioli of Lucca, closed in a half moon and filled with beef, pork, mortadella and chard, dressed with meat sauce and parmesan
Lucca · 15 ingredients · 11 steps
Tortelli maremmani
the ricotta and spinach tortelli of the Livorno Maremma, wide and rolled thin, with the meat sauce that cooks slowly for two hours
Marina di Cecina · 12 ingredients · 10 steps
Fried eggs with almonds
the starter of the farming tradition of Bibbona, made of the two things these hills never run out of, eggs and almonds
Marina di Bibbona · 5 ingredients · 8 steps
Trentino-Alto Adige (Italy)
Canederli allo speck
the stale bread dumplings of Tyrolean country cooking, flavoured with Speck Alto Adige PGI and served in broth or dry with melted butter
Brunico · 11 ingredients · 8 steps
Canederli allo speck
the stale bread and speck dumplings of the Val Badia, knödel in German and balotes in Ladin, served dry in melted butter
San Vigilio di Marebbe · 12 ingredients · 8 steps
Beetroot canederli
the pink dumplings of the Alto Adige, where beetroot takes the place of speck: the same stale bread, the same gesture, and a colour that does not go unnoticed at the table
Alpe di Siusi · 11 ingredients · 8 steps
Kaiserschmarrn
the emperor's sweet pancake, born in the mountain huts out of eggs, flour, milk and butter, served torn into pieces with cranberry jam
Bolzano · 11 ingredients · 11 steps
Snow milk
the Schneemilch of the Val Venosta, the farmhouse pudding made of stale bread soaked in milk, apple and raisins, with whipped cream on top and cinnamon
Maso Corto · 12 ingredients · 8 steps
Strangolapreti alla trentina
dumplings of stale bread and spinach, butter and sage: the leftovers dish of Trentino cooking, born according to legend during the Council of Trent, when the prelates put up by local families ate their fill of them until they choked
Madonna di Campiglio · 11 ingredients · 12 steps
Umbria (Italy)
Friccò all'eugubina
the mixed meat stew of Gubbio, flavoured with garlic, rosemary and anchovies melted in vinegar: a peasant dish that starts from whatever was in the yard and ends up very rich
Gubbio · 13 ingredients · 8 steps
Strangozzi al tartufo bianco
the long Umbrian pasta of just water and flour, cut by hand and rough, dressed in autumn with butter, oil and the white truffle of Gubbio grated raw
Gubbio · 7 ingredients · 8 steps
Valle d'Aosta (Italy)
Veneto (Italy)
Bigoli con le sarde
rough thick spaghetti pressed through a bronze die and the sardela of Garda, which is the shad, melted slowly into a cream
Lazise · 9 ingredients · 8 steps
Fegato alla Veneziana
veal liver and white Chioggia onions, the poor dish that in Venice turned into a classic
Venice · 10 ingredients · 8 steps
Pearà
the sauce of bread, marrow and pepper that goes with Verona's mixed boiled meats
Verona · 7 ingredients · 5 steps
Tortellini di Valeggio
the Nodo d'Amore, a paper thin sheet of pasta knotted around a filling of meat alone, a Traditional Agri-food Product of the Veneto
Borghetto sul Mincio · 22 ingredients · 22 steps
