Verona and Lake Garda

a transfer day. You arrive at the Porta Palio area, which has an automatic barrier with a ticket and so has no trouble with a late hour: ten euros for twenty-four hours, water filling and waste emptying included in the fee, no electricity. Dinner in the motorhome. Anyone still willing to go out takes line 62, which stops twenty metres from the entrance and reaches Piazza Brà in a few minutes; on foot it is fifteen or twenty minutes along the canal. The maximum allowed is forty-eight consecutive hours, and the count works out: the second night is spent on the lake.

it starts at San Zeno at nine, a kilometre from Porta Palio, when the wide square is still empty: on Saturday it opens from 9am to 6pm, the combined ticket for four churches costs eight euros and is valid ninety days, audio guide included. Visits stop during religious services, so the times are worth checking before setting off. Then into the bend of the Adige: Castelvecchio and the Ponte Scaligero, Piazza delle Erbe with the morning stalls, Juliet's House, the Arena and an aperitivo in Piazza Brà. In the late afternoon you leave the yard and drive the half hour to Lazise, where the municipal campsite sits inside the old town, right on the lake, and takes no bookings. The evening is enough for the walled village, which is walked in less than an hour, and for the sunset from the old harbour, between the Dogana Veneta and the church of San Nicolò.

four kilometres of lakeside cycle path to Bardolino, then the climb of Via Costabella, which gives no respite on foot and works on a bicycle. The Wine Museum is free, at the counter about ten wines stand on automatic taps and are tasted without paying and without having to buy anything, and the terrace turns through three hundred and sixty degrees from the lake to Peschiera; for the Amarone and the crus you pay a few euros a glass. On Sunday it opens from 9am to 1pm. The motorhome is better left at Lazise: the winery yard is declared for visitors without saying whether it takes long vehicles. Lunch on the lakefront and the drive home in the afternoon. No overnight stop: we sleep at home.