Pesaro sits where the hills of Monte San Bartolo come down to the Adriatic, and it holds together two things that usually belong to different towns: seven kilometres of beaches and an old centre that turns around Gioachino Rossini, born here in 1792. You get about by bicycle more than by car, because the Bicipolitana covers the city with 180 km of cycle paths. For a motorhome it is an easy destination: the service area is a kilometre from the centre and the campsites are on the sea.
Sleeping
Stops and overnight stays
Three options: the automated service area near the centre and two campsites, one on the beach and one on terraces inside the San Bartolo park.
Area Sosta Camper Pesaro Centro
Via Acquedotto, 61121 Pesaro (PU)
the choice for visiting the city without moving the vehicle. A kilometre from the old centre, 1.5 km from the seafront, 700 m from the railway station. In some periods there is a free shuttle to the centre, otherwise the bus stop is a few metres away. The rate is not stated by the source and should be checked on arrival.
Via Marina Ardizia 181, 61122 Pesaro, sulla SS16 Adriatica al km 244
a campsite right on the beach, with equipped pitches, a private beach with umbrella and sunbed hire, a fish restaurant and pizzeria, a market, a bar, a playground, a games room, an internet point and hire of bicycles and tandems. The cycle path along the beach runs towards Pesaro and towards Fano. Small and medium sized dogs welcome. The railway passes close by and you hear it at night.
family run, laid out on terraces inside the San Bartolo park, with marked shaded pitches and a view of the sea. Outdoor pool with hydromassage, bar, restaurant and pizzeria, market, service point and playground; the power comes from renewable sources. In season a public shuttle goes down to the beach. A good base for walking and cycling in the park. Twelve kilometres from Pesaro, a quarter of an hour by car from Cattolica station. Pets welcome.
The old centre is compact and almost all pedestrian: from Piazza del Popolo it is a few minutes to Casa Rossini, the theatre, the Musei Civici and the cathedral
From the centre to the seafront is 10 to 15 minutes on foot
The Bicipolitana, 180 km of cycle paths on 11 numbered lines, links the centre, the sea, the parks and the coast as far as Fano: it is the best way to get around
Bicycle hire at several points in the city and at the campsites
Adriabus city buses: tickets are sold only through the Adriabus or MooneyGo apps, no longer on board, and come as hourly, two hourly and daily. Timetables at adriabus.eu
From the Area Sosta Pesaro Centro: a kilometre to the old centre, 1.5 km to the seafront, a free shuttle in season or lines 30-31 and 130-131, with a stop a few metres away
Seeing
Sights
From the old centre to the sea is ten minutes on foot, and in between lie the square, the museums and the theatre; the last two stops are outside the city, to the north. Tap a marker on the map to open its entry below.
1
Piazza del Popolo
Square · free entry · 43.90976, 12.91298
the centre of Pesaro, dominated by the monumental fountain known as the Pupilla di Pesaro, of 1593, the work of Bernardino Baldi, with tritons, dolphins and sea horses. On the square stand the Palazzo Ducale, a Renaissance building wanted by the Malatesta and the Sforza and today the seat of the Prefecture, the Palazzo Baviera, which houses the town hall, and the Piaggeria. From here the shopping streets and the alleys towards the other monuments set off.
the house where Gioachino Rossini was born, 1792-1868, today a multimedia museum in ten rooms with documents, paintings, stage costumes, the composer's restored piano and projections of the best known operas, from the Barber of Seville to the Thieving Magpie to Cinderella.
Opening hours Tuesday to Sunday 10:00-13:00, at the weekend also 15:30-18:30 · to be checked on the official website
built in 1637, 860 seats, a neoclassical horseshoe hall with four tiers of boxes and the gallery. Since 1980 it has been the home of the Rossini Opera Festival. Visits are by booking.
an art gallery with works from the Renaissance to the twentieth century; the best known piece is the Coronation of the Virgin by Giovanni Bellini, of 1475. There are also a collection of Pesaro ceramics and majolica and the Parete di Libri, a contemporary art installation.
the cathedral of Pesaro, sober outside and full of colour and works of art inside. Beneath the floor early Christian mosaics of the fifth and sixth centuries have been found, the remains of two earlier basilicas, open to visitors on request.
the bronze sculpture of 1988 on the seafront, a globe that opens and shows the gears inside. People in Pesaro call it la Palla and it has become the contemporary symbol of the city; at sunset it is the right place for a photograph.
one of the greatest examples of Liberty architecture in Italy, built between 1902 and 1907 for the pharmaceutical industrialist Oreste Ruggeri. The floral and marine decorations in relief are different on every facade. The inside is not open, you look at it from outside.
seven kilometres of sandy coast, a Blue Flag since 2005, divided into four stretches: to the north the beaches of Monte San Bartolo, then Baia Flaminia with the area for dogs, then the central seafront with the beach clubs, the bars and the summer nightlife. Fine golden sand, wide beaches, a cycle path along the whole coast.
north of the city, a regional park with cliffs falling straight into the sea, panoramic paths, woods and the villages of Fiorenzuola di Focara and Casteldimezzo. People come for walking, mountain biking and excursions; the easiest way in is from the Parco della Pace, at Baia Flaminia.
a Renaissance residence in the landscape of the San Bartolo park, among the most interesting examples of Mannerist architecture in Italy. Built by the Sforza and enlarged by the Della Rovere, it keeps its painted cycles and frescoes. It can be visited only by booking, on a guided tour: times and availability should be checked on the official website.
a Christmas market in the village of Candelara, a hamlet of Pesaro, lit by thousands of candles, with craft stalls, nativity scenes and music. Temporary parking areas for motorhomes are set up for the occasion.
28-29 Nov · 5-8 Dec · 12-13 Dec · 19-20 Dec
12-24Aug
Rossini Opera Festival
August
the opera festival entirely devoted to Rossini, founded in 1980, between the Teatro Rossini and the Auditorium Scavolini: new productions, bel canto concerts and rarities in critical editions. The three opening nights go out live on Rai Radio3, and since 2017 Pesaro has been a UNESCO Creative City of Music. Calendar at rossinioperafestival.it.
Remember
Useful tips
The best times are May and June, September and October: good weather, sea warm enough to swim in and few people. July and August are the full months, with higher rates
Bring the bicycles or hire them there: with the Bicipolitana you reach everywhere safely, and the coastal cycle path carries on to Fano and beyond
The old centre is a limited traffic zone and the streets are narrow: the motorhome stays in the service area or the campsite, and you move on foot, by bike or by bus
In August, during the Rossini Opera Festival, the service area and the campsites need booking well ahead, and restaurants and museums are crowded too
With more days: the beaches of the San Bartolo park to the north, Urbino, Gradara and Urbania inland, Fano to the south
Supermarkets and shops in every part of the city, a weekly market with local produce, days and times to ask about on the spot; the campsites by the sea have a market inside
In 2017 Legambiente put Pesaro first, level with Bolzano, among the most bicycle friendly cities in Italy, and it shows
50 g of lard for the dough, plus 60 g for the layering
1 teaspoon of fine salt
freshly ground black pepper, plenty of it
Method
pour the flour into a well on the board and put the eggs, the salt, the pepper and the 50 g of lard in the middle
knead, taking in the flour and adding the water and the milk a little at a time, for 8 to 10 minutes, until the dough is smooth and elastic
shape it into a ball, cover it with cling film and let it rest 45 minutes at room temperature, or 30 minutes in the fridge
divide the dough into 4 or 6 pieces of about 160 g and roll each one out with a rolling pin into a thin disc of 26 cm
spread about 10 g of lard on each disc, roll the sheet up from the long side, stretch the log by pulling it from the middle towards the ends and wind it into a spiral
lay the spirals on a tray covered with cling film and let them rest in the fridge for at least an hour: this is the step that makes the layers
roll each spiral out again on a floured surface, into discs of 26 cm and 1 or 2 mm thick
heat a non stick pan, or a griddle, well and without oil, and cook one crescia at a time for 3 or 4 minutes until the bubbles form
turn it and cook another minute until golden, then stack the crescie under a cloth so they stay soft
fill them as you like, traditionally with prosciutto crudo and casciotta d'Urbino or with ciauscolo and pecorino, and serve hot
Distances and times by road, measured with OSRM on OpenStreetMap data.
Looking
Pesaro in photographs
6 shots from our visit. Tap one to see it large.
the Sfera Grande by Arnaldo Pomodoro in the basin on the seafront, with the sea behindsailing boats moored along the canal harbour, with the coloured houses on the bankthe fountain in Piazza del Popolo lit at night, in front of the post office buildingthe brick front of the cathedral at night, with the rose window and the gothic marble doorwaytwo nineteenth century editions of Rossini's Semiramide open in a case in the museumthe room of the Rossini museum, with the backlit portraits and the scores under glass