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the lakeside with the blue and white posts of the pier and the buildings facing the water

Italy · Lombardia · Lakes

Lovere

the Alto Sebino village of the oldest museum in Lombardy, the medieval towers and the projections over the lake

1 stopwhere to park
6 sightsto see
4 eventsseasonal

Lovere stands where Lake Iseo narrows between the mountains of the Alto Sebino: a little over five thousand inhabitants, coloured houses running down to the water and an artistic heritage out of all proportion to that number, from the oldest museum in Lombardy to the largest church in the diocese of Brescia. You can walk the whole village in two or three hours, but it holds a full day. For the motorhome the base is at Costa Volpino, just over the town boundary.

Sleeping

Stops and overnight stays

Only one equipped area, and it is not in Lovere: it is at Costa Volpino, on the boundary, a kilometre and a half from the centre.

Area Sosta Camper Costa Volpino "Il Bersaglio"

Via Nazionale 24, località Bersaglio, 24062 Costa Volpino (BG)

a municipal area of 8,000 square metres facing the lake, pitches on gravel and grass block, wide and level spaces, some with natural shade and a view of the mountains. The pitches are roomy enough to take on water and plug in the electricity without moving the vehicle. The drain for emptying and for filling up sits inside the area, along with the discharge for grey and black water. There are three toilets and the showers have hot water on tokens, all unisex. The centre of Lovere is 10 to 15 minutes on foot along the lakeside or on the protected cycle path: the route is flat the whole way and lit in the evening too. The cycle path is paved and suitable for everyone.

about 40 pitches

WaterGrey waterChemical toiletElectricityToiletsShowerDrain

18 euros for 24 hours

45.823113, 10.086600

Getting around

Getting around

  • The historic centre is largely pedestrian and the streets are narrow: you do not take the motorhome in, and there is no need
  • From the Costa Volpino area to Piazza XIII Martiri it is 1.5 flat kilometres, 10 to 15 minutes on foot: the lakeside is more scenic, the cycle path quicker
  • The medieval village takes two or three hours to walk, all on foot
  • The cycle path carries on along the lake southwards and northwards towards the Valle Camonica
  • From the pier in Piazza XIII Martiri the Navigazione Lago d'Iseo boats leave for Monte Isola, Iseo, Sarnico and Pisogne

Seeing

Sights

Six stops inside a compact village: the square on the lake, the museum, the tower, the basilica, the lakeside and the grid of medieval alleys. Tap a marker on the map to open its entry below.

1

Piazza XIII Martiri

Square · free entry · 45.81690, 10.07518

the drawing room of the village, straight onto the lake, with pastel buildings that hold bars, restaurants and pastry shops. The name recalls the killing of thirteen partisans during the Second World War. At the centre stands the Fontana della Libertà. The boats arrive and leave here, concerts and events fill the square on summer evenings, and on Saturday mornings the weekly market goes up.

2

Galleria dell'Accademia Tadini

Museum · 45.81465, 10.07296

the oldest museum in Lombardy, open to the public since 1828, in a neoclassical palace on the lakeside. It was the wish of Count Luigi Tadini, a Veronese nobleman who had settled in Lovere, to show his collection and honour the memory of his son Faustino, who died in 1799: for him he commissioned the Stele Tadini from Antonio Canova, carved between 1819 and 1821 and set in the chapel at the centre of the garden. Inside, works from the fourteenth century to the present day: Jacopo Bellini, Paris Bordon, Francesco Hayez and Canova's terracotta sketch for Religion. The rooms on the main floor keep their original nineteenth century furnishings, on the second floor the Museo dell'Ottocento holds three paintings by Hayez, and the visit closes with the modern and contemporary collection. Since 1927 the Accademia has run a season of classical concerts in the central hall and keeps open the music and drawing schools its founder wanted.

349 4118779 · accademiatadini.it

3

Torre Civica

Monument · 45.81637, 10.07391

it stands in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, once the centre of political and economic power in the village, next to the Palazzo del Podestà. It carries the clock and the fresco of the Lion of St Mark, a reminder of the three and a half centuries of Venetian rule, from 1442 to 1797. Climbing the inner staircase you meet the "12 ore di Lovere" on the walls, twelve moments in the history of the village from its Celtic origins to today; from the top you see the whole town, the lake and the mountains, and on clear days the view reaches Monte Isola and the Brescia shore. Information at the Infopoint in Piazza XIII Martiri.

Take me there
4

Basilica di Santa Maria in Valvendra

Church · free entry · 45.81942, 10.07713

at the northern end of the village, the largest church in the diocese of Brescia. To build it, between 1473 and 1483, the course of the Valvendra stream that gives it its name was diverted. The Renaissance facade is sober, fronted by a portico with 33 descending steps, one for each year of Christ's life; the three nave interior, on the other hand, is frescoed from end to end, among the highest expressions of Lombard Renaissance classicism with Venetian influences: the painted architecture of Ottavio Viviani (1645-46), the Coronation of the Virgin by Ottavio Amigoni on the central vault, Prophets, Sibyls and Apostles down the side aisles. Look for the seventeenth century organ that came from the Duomo Vecchio in Brescia, its doors painted outside by Floriano Ferramola (the Annunciation) and inside by Moretto (Saints Faustino and Giovita on horseback), the inlaid sixteenth century wooden choir, the high altar from the Fantoni workshop of Rovetta and the large seventeenth century canvases on the life of Christ. It was built for the merchant class grown rich on the "panno di Lovere": their coats of arms are still there on the walls.

5

The lakeside and the marina

Walk · free entry · 45.81542, 10.07404

two kilometres of walks on the water. The best known stretch is the promenade named after Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, the English writer who in the eighteenth century called Lovere the most romantic place she had ever seen. The marina is a modern structure, among the best equipped in Europe, with green spaces and areas for recreation and shopping: boat, kayak, windsurf and sailing hire all start from here.

Take me there
6

The medieval village

Village · free entry · 45.81692, 10.07460

the grid of alleys in the historic centre. The Portichetto San Giorgio, a covered passage with arches and wooden beams, joins via Gramsci to via Cavour; from there you climb to the Chiesa di San Giorgio, of the fourteenth century, which behind a sober facade keeps works by Flemish painters and by the Bergamo school. Of the old fortifications the Torre Soca (twelfth to thirteenth century), the Torricella and the Torre degli Alghisi remain; among the tower houses stand the palaces of the merchant families, the Celeri, the Bazzini, the Barboglio.

When

Events

Lovere, the Village of Light

June to September

more than 10,000 square metres of historic facades become the surface for artistic projections, with a different theme each year, from Italian music to television, from art to cinema. Among the artists involved is Maestro Marco Lodola. The works light up Piazza XIII Martiri, Piazza Garibaldi, Palazzo Tadini and Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II.

La Notte Romantica, the Romantic Night

a Saturday in June, near the solstice

the national festival of the Borghi più Belli d'Italia, which falls on a Saturday near the summer solstice (in recent years 20, 21 or 22 June): live music, theatre, places of interest open beyond their usual hours and guided tours by night. The lakeside is closed to traffic.

Borgo diVino in Tour

late July

a weekend on the lakeside with more than 30 wineries from all over Italy, guided tastings, food from the Bergamo and Brescia hills and live music.

Memorial Mario Stoppani

between August and early October

a programme of events in honour of the aviator from Lovere, a First World War ace and holder of records for the Atlantic crossing, spread across the villages of Lake Iseo. The seaplanes land at the Marone water aerodrome, on the opposite shore of the lake, and Lovere hosts the closing conference at the Accademia Tadini. The Frecce Tricolori air displays are no longer part of it: the last time was in 2022.

Remember

Useful tips

  • Infopoint Turistico, Piazza XIII Martiri, telephone 035 962178, infopoint@altolagoiseo.it, lovereeventi.it
  • Navigazione Lago d'Iseo, pier in Piazza XIII Martiri, telephone 035 971483, navigazionelagoiseo.it
  • Farmacia Lovere, Via Tadini, telephone 035 960173. Comune di Lovere 035 983711
  • From Bergamo the SS42, 35 km and three quarters of an hour; from Brescia the SP510 along the east shore of the lake, 50 km and an hour; from Milan the A4, exit at Palazzolo sull'Oglio, then the SP469, 100 km and an hour and a half. The nearest railway station is Pisogne, 6 km away
  • Half a day is enough for the round of the village, but the Accademia Tadini and the basilica without hurrying need the whole day
  • The Torta Donizetti keeps three or four days under a glass dome and the day after it is even better: a slice bought at a pastry shop makes it back to the motorhome
  • Lovere is a handy base for the Valle Camonica and for the whole of the Alto Sebino

Lovere · part two

and then?

What to taste, and where to go tomorrow.

Taste

The most typical dish, to cook again at home.

Torta Donizetti · ingredients for one 22 to 24 cm ring mould
  • 260 g of butter at room temperature
  • 150 g of sugar
  • 160 g of egg yolks, about 8
  • 120 g of egg whites, about 4
  • 90 g of plain flour
  • 90 g of potato starch
  • 100 g of candied or dried apricots, cut into cubes
  • 100 g of candied or dried pineapple, cut into cubes
  • 50 ml of maraschino
  • 1 vanilla pod, or 1 teaspoon of extract
  • 8 g of baking powder, optional
  • 1 pinch of salt
  • icing sugar to finish
Method
  1. cut the apricots and the pineapple into cubes that are not too small and toss them with a teaspoon of flour, so they do not sink while the cake bakes
  2. beat the soft butter with 120 g of the sugar, the maraschino and the vanilla seeds for a good ten minutes, until the cream is pale and fluffy
  3. add the yolks one at a time, waiting for each to be taken in before the next goes in
  4. whisk the whites with the pinch of salt in a clean dry bowl, adding the remaining 30 g of sugar a little at a time, to stiff and glossy peaks
  5. fold the whites into the butter and yolk mixture with a light hand, working from the bottom up
  6. sift the flour, the potato starch and the baking powder together and fold them in the same way, then add the floured fruit
  7. butter and flour a 22 to 24 cm ring mould, pour in the batter and level the top
  8. bake in a static oven preheated to 175 degrees for 40 to 45 minutes, until the cake is golden and a skewer comes out clean
  9. let it cool for ten minutes in the mould, turn it out onto a rack and, once it is cold, dust it heavily with icing sugar
60 more local recipes, region by region

Looking

Lovere in photographs

6 shots from our visit. Tap one to see it large.

the lakeside with the blue and white posts of the pier and the buildings facing the water
the northern arm of the Sebino at dusk, the mountains against the light and the houses on the right shore
the Torre Civica seen from below, with the clock and the fresco of the Lion of St Mark
the fountain with the horse's head and the arcade facades lit by the night projections
the Christmas projections on a building of the lakeside, reflected in the water of the lake
the cliffs dropping straight into the lake with the walkway cut into the rock and a boat under way