A Visit to the Zeni Winery: Between Wine History and Tastings in Bardolino

Climbing toward the first hill behind Bardolino means leaving the lake behind for a moment and immersing yourself in a landscape of orderly vineyards, ancient olive trees, and that golden light that makes Lake Garda irresistible in every season. It is here, along Via Costabella, that the F.lli Zeni Winery awaits you: not just one of the most historic wine producers in the region, but a true treasure chest where five generations have preserved and passed down the art of winemaking.

Since 1870, the Zeni family has dedicated itself to producing the great Veronese classics—Bardolino, Valpolicella, Amarone, Lugana, Soave—with that meticulous dedication that transforms every bottle into a story to be told. But what makes a visit to the Zeni Winery special is not just the wine: it is the complete experience that awaits you. The Wine Museum, inaugurated in the early 90s and recently renovated, will take you back in time through ancient tools and authentic testimonies of the Veronese winemaking tradition. The panoramic terrace with a 360-degree view of the lake will leave you breathless. And then there is the “GO” Olfactory Gallery, the only one of its kind in Italy, where you can test your sense of smell in an eno-sensory journey that pays homage to our most neglected sense.

Whether you are a wine enthusiast or simply curious and looking for an authentic experience, the Zeni Winery will win you over with its hospitality, the passion that shines through every corner, and that quintessential Italian generosity reflected in free tastings and genuine smiles.

How to Reach It by Camper

The Zeni Winery is located in a hilly position, just 2 kilometers from the center of Bardolino, in the locality of Cisano. The precise address is Via Costabella, 9 – 37011 Bardolino (VR).

From the center of Bardolino, the route involves a gradual climb via Via Costabella: it is about a 25-30 minute uphill walk, which is pleasant if the weather is mild but can be demanding on hotter days. Many visitors prefer to take a taxi or reach the winery with their own vehicle.

By camper, you can leave your vehicle in one of the Bardolino parking areas (such as the Municipal Campsite in the center or Camping La Quercia) and reach the winery with a towed car, or use public transport. Bus line 483 connects Bardolino with neighboring towns and can be a convenient option.

Once you arrive at the winery, you will find free parking dedicated to visitors, as well as free electric charging stations for both cars and bicycles—a service particularly appreciated by those traveling sustainably.

The route itself deserves attention: as you climb, the view progressively opens up over Lake Garda, offering panoramic glimpses that anticipate the breathtaking view from the winery’s terrace. The vineyards surrounding Via Costabella are the same ones that produce the grapes for Zeni wines, and passing through them will make you feel part of the experience already.

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Zeni 1870

The Barrique Cellar

A Dive into History: The Wine Museum

Stepping through the entrance of the Zeni Winery, the first space that welcomes you is the Wine Museum, envisioned and created by Nino Zeni in the early 90s as a living testimony to the Veronese winemaking tradition. This is not a cold and detached museum: it is a collection of love, where every object has a story and tells of the centuries-old relationship between man and wine.

The museum path is organized into thematic areas, each dedicated to a specific phase of the wine supply chain. It begins with vine cultivation: here you will find ancient pruning tools, examples of grafts, and panels explaining how the winemakers of the past faced the challenges of the seasons. Moving on, you enter the heart of harvesting and gathering: agricultural wagons, woven wooden baskets (gerle), and antique scales that have weighed tons of grape bunches.

The section dedicated to grape transformation is perhaps the most fascinating: monumental wooden vats, manual presses that required physical strength and patience, and crushing tools that might make us smile today but represent centuries of ingenuity and hard work. Each tool is accompanied by detailed captions and multimedia supports that explain its use and historical context.

There is no shortage of evidence related to bottling and transport: from the first hand-blown bottles to vintage labels, up to the vehicles used to get Zeni wine to distant markets. A small but significant space is also dedicated to the lands and grapes that characterize the production areas: Bardolino, Valpolicella, Custoza, Lugana, Soave. Through maps, historical photographs, and soil samples, one understands how the Garda and Verona territory is a mosaic of microclimates and traditions.

What makes this museum special is its authenticity: most of the objects on display were actually used by members of the Zeni family over generations. These are not artifacts purchased to set up a tourist space, but direct testimonies of a family history intertwined with that of Veronese wine.

The layout is refined but not intrusive: wood, soft lighting, and warm colors create an intimate atmosphere that invites unhurried discovery. Take the time to read the stories, observe the details, and imagine the calloused hands that used those tools and the effort required for every step of wine production. It is a journey through time that will make you appreciate what you drink shortly after even more.

Free Tastings and Panoramic Terrace

Exiting the museum, you naturally enter the Wine Shop and Point of Sale, the beating heart of the Zeni experience. Here, something rare and generous happens: the winery offers free tastings of a selection of its wines, with no reservation required and no obligation to purchase.

At the wine shop counter, you will find qualified, multilingual staff (speaking Italian, English, German, and other languages) ready to guide you through the discovery of Zeni wines. The tasting system is modern and practical: a selection of about 10-13 wines is available via automatic dispensers, allowing you to sample small pours of Bardolino Classico, Chiaretto, Lugana, Soave, Valpolicella, and other Veronese classics. Each wine is accompanied by tasting notes and pairing suggestions.

If you wish to delve deeper, you can request to taste more structured and premium wines, such as the Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Classico “Nino Zeni,” the Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore “Marogne,” or the “Vigne Alte” Selection. For these, a small contribution is required (from 2 to 6 euros depending on the bottle), which allows you to enjoy a generous glass of oenological excellence without having to buy the entire bottle. It is a precious opportunity to discover important wines that you might not have had the chance to taste before.

The wine shop is not just a place for tasting, but also a beautiful retail space where you can purchase all the winery’s labels, as well as artisanal grappas, extra virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and a selection of gift ideas. Prices are fair, often more affordable than in specialty shops, and the winery also offers shipping services within Italy and Europe for those who want to bring home a liquid souvenir without weighing down their camper.

Before leaving the winery, don’t miss the panoramic terrace: access is free, and the view that opens up before you will amply reward the climb. From here, the gaze sweeps 360 degrees over Lake Garda, embracing the coast from Peschiera all the way to Garda, with the mountains framing the scene. It is the perfect spot for taking photographs, relaxing after the tasting, and letting yourself be won over by the beauty of the Garda landscape.

Olfactory Gallery

Wine Museum

The Olfactory Gallery: A Unique Sensory Experience

For those who wish to go beyond traditional tasting, Zeni Winery offers an exclusive experience: the “GO” Olfactory Gallery, located in the atmospheric underground Barrel Cellar (Sala Bottaia). Inaugurated in 2017, it is the first olfactory gallery dedicated to wine in Italy—an eno-sensory journey that highlights the most neglected sense: smell.

The concept is simple yet powerful: wine is not consumed only with the palate, but first and foremost with the nose. The scents released from a glass tell the story of the land, the climate, the grapes, and the winemaker’s craft. And yet, how often do we truly stop to smell, distinguish, and memorize these aromas?

The Olfactory Gallery guides you on a journey through the primary, secondary, and tertiary aromas of wine, inviting you to recognize floral, fruity, spicy, herbal, and mineral notes. The experience is all-encompassing: in an environment with controlled temperature and humidity, you will be led through the discovery of pure aromas, which you will then find in the wines tasted at the end of the path. It is an exercise in focus and awareness that transforms the way you drink wine from that moment forward.

Access to the Olfactory Gallery is by reservation only and limited to a maximum of 7 people at a time, ensuring an intimate and concentrated experience. The tour lasts about an hour and includes a guided tasting of selected Zeni wines paired with the aromas discovered during the tour. It is highly recommended for those who want to seriously deepen their wine knowledge, couples looking for an original activity, or small groups of enthusiast friends.

To book the Olfactory Gallery (and full guided tours of the winery), you can contact the winery directly at +39 045 4500492 or via email at the address listed on the official website www.zeni.it. The specialized staff, the “L’Ora” team (named after the breeze that blows over Lake Garda), organizes multilingual guided tours for groups and special occasions.

Wines Not to Be Missed

The Zeni Winery produces a vast range of labels—as many as 31 different wines among the Veronese classics—but some deserve a special mention for their quality and representation of the territory.

Bardolino Classico DOC: This is the wine that best represents the territory where the winery is located. Fresh, easy-drinking, with notes of cherry and almond, it is perfect for accompanying lake dishes and summer barbecues. The Bardolino Classico Superiore DOCG, on the other hand, is a more structured version, aged in wood, ideal for white meats and aged cheeses.

Chiaretto di Bardolino: The rosé of Lake Garda is one of the most appreciated in Italy. Zeni produces both a classic and a sparkling version: pale in color with delicate scents of rose and small red fruits, it is perfect as an aperitif or with fish appetizers.

Lugana DOC “Vigne Alte”: A mineral and fragrant white made from Turbiana grapes, coming from the Lower Garda area. With freshness, elegance, and notes of white flowers and citrus, it is the perfect wine to accompany lake fish, shellfish, and risottos.

Valpolicella Ripasso DOC Superiore “Marogne”: The “ripasso” technique gives this wine a significant structure and an aromatic complexity that makes it perfect for red meats, braised dishes, and blue cheeses. A red that tells the story of the most authentic Valpolicella.

Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Classico “Nino Zeni”: This is the king of Zeni’s production, dedicated to the founder of the modern winery. A powerful, enveloping “meditation wine,” it is obtained from dried grapes according to the most rigorous traditions. It is a wine that deserves time, attention, and silence. Tasting it at the Zeni Winery, perhaps in the Barrel Cellar during a guided tour, is an experience you won’t forget.

If you want to bring home a taste of this experience, the wine shop staff will be happy to recommend the labels best suited to your tastes and budget. And if you are traveling by camper and don’t want to load too many bottles, remember that the winery offers secure and efficient shipping services.

Practical Information

Address: Cantina F.lli Zeni Via Costabella, 9 37011 Bardolino (VR)

Contacts: Tel: +39 045 721 00 22 Email: info@zeni.it Website: www.zeni.it

Opening Hours (indicative, please check the official website):

May: Monday-Saturday 08:30-12:30 / 14:30-18:30 | Sunday 09:00-13:00
June-October: Monday-Saturday 09:00-12:30 / 14:30-18:30 | Sunday 09:00-13:00
November-April: Reduced hours, please consult the website

Costs:

Wine Museum Entrance: Free for individual visitors and small groups (max 10 people)
Free Tastings: A selection of 10-13 wines available at no cost
Premium Wine Tasting: 2-6 euros per glass (Amarone, Ripasso, Vigne Alte)
Full Guided Tour with Tasting in the Barrel Cellar: By reservation (price to be agreed upon, info at +39 045 4500492)
“GO” Olfactory Gallery: By reservation, maximum 7 people (price to be agreed upon)

Services:

Free parking
Free electric charging for cars and bikes
Panoramic terrace with lake view (free access)
Disabled accessibility
Multilingual staff (Italian, English, German, and other languages)
Wine shipping within Italy and Europe

Recommended Visit Time:

Museum visit + free tasting: 1-1.5 hours
Museum visit + guided tour + tasting: 2-2.5 hours
Olfactory Gallery: 1 hour

When to go: The winery is open year-round, but the best times are spring (April-June) and early autumn (September-October), when the weather is mild and the surrounding vineyards are particularly beautiful. During the harvest (late September-early October), the atmosphere is magical.

How to book: For individual visits without a guide, no reservation is needed: simply show up during opening hours. For groups over 10 people, full guided tours, the Olfactory Gallery, and special events, please book by calling +39 045 4500492 or via email.