Visit Lugano

Ticinese cuisine is a perfect blend of Lombard tradition and Swiss refinement, based on genuine products, savory flavors, and recipes passed down through generations. In Lugano, you cannot miss the region’s signature dish: Risotto with Luganighetta and Merlot, a rich and creamy first course that tells the story of the land through two of Ticino’s most iconic ingredients.

Luganighetta: The Quintessential Ticinese Sausage

Luganighetta (or luganiga) is the traditional sausage of the Canton of Ticino and the undisputed star of local cuisine. It stands out from common Italian sausages due to its unique spice blend: garlic, black pepper, cinnamon, and nutmeg provide an unmistakable flavor—delicate yet intense. The pork is coarsely ground and carefully encased following a recipe dating back centuries, which every Ticinese family jealously guards with small personal variations. The luganighetta takes its name from the city of Lugano, where it originated among peasant families who needed to preserve pork after the “mazza” (the traditional winter slaughter).

Ticinese Merlot: The Region’s Premier Wine

Merlot is the red wine par excellence of the Canton of Ticino, introduced at the end of the 19th century following the phylloxera crisis. The mild climate, well-drained soils, and sunny exposure of the Ticinese hills create ideal conditions for this Bordeaux grape variety. Ticinese Merlot has a bold character, fruity notes of cherry and plum, and a balanced tannic structure. This makes it perfect both for pairing with robust traditional dishes and for deglazing risotto, where it releases intense aromas that enhance the flavor of the luganighetta.

Risotto with Luganighetta and Merlot Recipe

Ingredients (serves 4):

• 320g Carnaroli or Arborio rice (Carnaroli is preferred for its better cooking consistency)
• 400g fresh Ticinese luganighetta
• 1 medium onion (or 2 shallots), finely chopped
• 2 dl (200ml) good quality Ticino Merlot
• 1 liter hot meat broth (preferably homemade beef broth, otherwise high-quality bouillon)
• 80g fresh butter (divided: 50g for the sauté, 30g for the “mantecatura”)
• 100g cheese of your choice:
  • Ticinese Alpine cheese, finely diced (recommended for authenticity)
  • or grated Sbrinz
  • or grated Parmigiano Reggiano
• 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• Salt to taste
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1 sprig of fresh rosemary (optional)
• 2 fresh robiolini (small Ticinese fresh cheeses) for garnish – optional

Method:

1. Prepare the luganighetta: Remove the casing from the luganighetta and crumble it coarsely with your hands or a fork. It should not be finely ground but should maintain a rustic texture with visible chunks.
2. Prepare the broth: Keep the meat broth simmering on a separate burner. It is essential that it stays hot throughout the entire process so as not to interrupt the rice’s cooking.
3. Sauté the onion: In a wide, low pot with a thick bottom (risotto pan), heat 50g of butter with 2 tablespoons of olive oil. When the butter has melted, add the finely chopped onion (or shallots) and sauté gently over medium-low heat for 2-3 minutes until translucent but not browned. Stir often to prevent burning.
4. Cook the luganighetta: Add the crumbled luganighetta to the pan with the onion. Increase the heat slightly (medium) and brown the sausage, breaking it up further with a wooden spoon. Cook for 5-6 minutes, stirring often, until browned and slightly golden. If using rosemary, add it now. The sausage fat will melt, creating a flavorful base.
5. Toast the rice: Add the rice to the pan with the luganighetta. Stir well for 2-3 minutes over medium heat, “toasting” the rice until the grains become slightly translucent at the edges but remain white in the center. This step seals the outer starch and keeps the rice al dente.
6. Deglaze with Merlot: Pour half of the Merlot (1 dl) over the hot rice. The wine will sizzle, releasing its aromas. Stir continuously as the wine evaporates completely (about 2 minutes). The alcohol must evaporate, leaving only the scent and color. This gives the risotto its characteristic pinkish hue and intense flavor.
7. Cook the risotto: Begin adding the boiling broth one ladle at a time (approx. 100-120ml). Stir frequently and wait until the broth is almost completely absorbed before adding the next ladle. Do not cover the pot. Continue for about 16-18 minutes, stirring regularly to release the starch and create the typical creaminess. The rice should always have a thin veil of liquid on the surface.
8. Check the cooking: After about 15 minutes, start tasting the rice. It should be “al dente”: cooked on the outside but with a small white core that is still slightly firm. When about 2 minutes remain, pour in the rest of the Merlot (1 dl) and stir well.
9. The Mantecatura (finishing): When the rice is perfectly al dente (after about 18 minutes total), turn off the heat. Remove the rosemary sprig if used. Immediately add the remaining 30g of cold butter and the grated cheese (or Alpine cheese cubes). Cover the pot with a lid and let it rest for 1 minute. Then stir vigorously for 30 seconds with a wooden spoon or spatula using circular motions. This step creates the final creaminess by emulsifying the butter, cheese, and released starch. The risotto should have an “all’onda” (wave-like) consistency: when you move the pan, it should ripple softly.
10. Season and serve: Taste and adjust with salt and freshly ground black pepper (remember the luganighetta and cheese are already savory, so be cautious with salt). Let the risotto rest covered for 1 minute, then serve in preheated individual plates. Garnish with thin slices of fresh robiolino, which will melt slightly, or pieces of separately browned luganighetta. A final grind of black pepper completes the dish.

Chef’s Tips:

• Rice choice: Carnaroli is preferred because it maintains its firm texture better than Arborio. Avoid low-quality rice.
• Ingredient quality: Use authentic Ticinese luganighetta. Imitations lack the characteristic spicy flavor.
• Wine: Use a decent quality Ticinese Merlot DOC. It doesn’t need to be expensive, but it must be drinkable. Avoid low-quality “cooking wine.”
• Hot broth: Never add cold broth to the risotto; it slows down the cooking and ruins the creaminess.
• Mantecatura: This is the secret to creaminess. The butter must be fridge-cold, the movement must be vigorous, and the lid helps create the steam that binds everything.
• Serve immediately: Risotto doesn’t wait! It must be served right after the mantecatura while it is still “all’onda.”
• Wine pairing: Serve the same Ticinese Merlot used for cooking, slightly chilled (16-18°C).

Historical and Cultural Note

Risotto with Luganighetta is more than just a dish: it represents the gastronomic identity of Canton Ticino and its strong link to peasant traditions. Every year, Lugano hosts the “Ticinese Risotto Championship,” a competition where chefs and home cooks compete to prepare the best risotto. This dish is so beloved that it is served in traditional Ticinese “grotti” (rustic taverns under the shade of ancient trees). Tasting this risotto means connecting with centuries of history, tradition, and a passion for good food. Now you can prepare it even in your camper, bringing a piece of Ticino home with you!